March 24, 2003
San Pedro de Macorís
Dominican Republic
Sounding like giant bubble bees, these two-wheeled vehicles of terror grind through the streets. I have never been a motorcycle man, but I have never feared them before either. These pieces of metal, plastic, fiberglass, and rubber plummet their hapless riders pell mell into a melee of confusion, speed, and sheer danger. Motorcycles, motor scooters, and motorbikes literally fill the streets of the cities in the Dominican Republic.
I never gave this any thought before, actually. I have visited Hong Kong, Spain, Mexico, and other places, and I have seen motorbikes, of course. But I have never seen motorbikes and/or motorcycles used like this before. When we first hit the Island, our transport driver explained to me that the drivers will cruised the streets and pick up riders and ferry them across town for meetings, business, or shopping. This is the Dominican Republic taxi crew. The motos are everywhere! Sure enough, everywhere I look, I see people (young, old, male, and female) clinging on for dear life as the driver of their mini-taxi tears into the traffic and makes for the appointed destination.
Aside from the obvious benefits of transportation from one place to another, the motos for hire provide numerous other cultural contributions. First, they provide cultural background noise. At any time of the day or night, you will hear the rousing sound of a racing motorcycle roaring by on the city street. Naturally, much like many other Latin American countries, one can hear the traditional rooster at work, the children in the streets squealing with excitement, or the honking of the car horns, as motorists demand space and right of way. But here, more than any other place I have visited, sounds the unmistakable whine of a Suzuki or Honda pouring it on to get around or to get out in front of the mass of other motos. This gives new meaning to motocross!
Another contribution this gang of cyclists make: local color. In every culture I visit, there seems to be graffiti or artwork on the walls; political announcements plastered securely on the light polls; or, the unmistakable mural in the government building designed to demonstrate points of cultural progress. Naturally, the Domincian Republic has all of that. This cultural art influence pales, however, when compared to the unmistakable statement the riders and their scooters make at seemingly every street corner. They shine them, they repair them, they wash them, and they massage them making sure that, at any crucial moment, they can hop on and hurry off to satisfy the customer’s every whim. These moto operators represent the best of Dominican culture. Their customer concern, adventurous spirit, and an entrepreneurial focus exceed many others across the globe. This is truly a place of go-getters!
The cycle drivers also provide excitement. Generally, one has to pay an admittance fee for action such as this. I have heard announcements about motorcycle events that will occur in the conventions centers or memorial halls throughout the United States, but here, a person can pull up a chair and enjoy a ringside seat. They cross through traffic, against traffic, around traffic, and in front of traffic. The driver can turn the cycle on a dime, do tricks, and exceed the speed limits easily without getting caught by the police. I quickly learned that here in the Dominican Republic, the pedestrian does not have the right of way. The motorcyclist has the right of way. At any corner in just about any city, a person can sit down and enjoy the show.
Here in the Dominica Republic the motorcyclist offers access to areas a person could not otherwise reach. Some streets are no more than paths. Various obstacles such as rusted out cars, mounds of sand or dirt, barrels, huge holes, fences, or other barriers block some pathways. Yet, one word to the driver, and he knows a short cut. Off you go at ample speed to cool you off plus provide you with a cross-city journey that could lead through empty lots, alleys, paths, ditches, and who knows where else. The drive has a way of moving to and fro through traffic that rivals the skill of a surgeon. He or she can cut in, cut out, cut through, and cut around. Soon, you sit wide-eyed and stunned in front of your destination. Crawl onto a bike, hang on, and you’ll be there!
The motorcycles and motor scooters in the Dominican Republic offer folk affordable transportation, local color, excitement, and access to just about anywhere in the city. The streets roar with their engine noise and the action never ceases. The drives qualify for race awards without ever paying an entry fee. The street show goes on around the clock, twenty-four hours a day. Sure, the Dominican Republic produces great baseball players. For years, the place has been known for quality sugar and great cigars. The beaches in the Dominican Republic are pristine. But for my money (or lack of it) I opt for the motorcycle and motor scooter show. Grab some friends, head toward a corner café, have a seat, order up and enjoy the show! In the Dominican Republic, motos rule the streets! ¿Se Va? You going?
|